The other morning I got a call from a client who had to rescue his very rare Maserati Ghibli SS convertible from a restoration shop. More than three years ago he had sent them the car, and over that time had paid the shop more than $300,000 for the restoration. Initially he heard from them somewhat regularly, usually about another payment needed. About 19 months later, and no updates for quite awhile, he became concerned. He called me and asked if I could help.
After I made many calls to the shop owner I finally got him on the phone. The pictures he sent me of the car in process scared me, especially due to the amount of time he had the car and how much money the client had spent. It seemed as if little had been done to the car in the three years and definitely not $300,000 worth of work was done.
The mess John picked upThese are some of the parts, not organized and filthy
I needed to get the car out of that shop and as quickly as possible. I immediately connected the car owner with my friend, and restorer, John Saccameno from Sport & Specialty restorations. He agreed to get in his shop truck to drive over to the shop himself. John was let in by an assistant, and then saw this rare and valuable Maserati convertible in pieces. John knows cars well and has done many award wining restorations, and what he saw was a complete mess. The car was in pieces with a terrible paint job that was done over existing body rust that has not been fixed. The parts taken off were in boxes with many missing and supposedly in other locations. John called the owner immediately explaining what he saw and the loaded the car with all its parts onto his trailer. He then called the other shops involved to locate the parts off site, picked them up in two other states and headed back to his own shop in Illinois.
After getting the car to his shop he quickly realized that despite the money spent, the little work that was done was terrible. He informed the owner that his rare Ghibli was in such a state that the only solution was to start all over with a restoration, which he is now doing at Sport & Specialty.
Another example. These boxes contain the parts of a M3 Factory DTM carThis is what is inside, nothing labeled or organized
You need to know that this is not an isolated incident. In fact I have four other stories from the last three months that are the same, and none of those owners were out less than $100k with no real work completed to justify the money they had spent.
If you are in some of the same Facebook groups and on mailing lists as me, then you might have heard about some other experiences like this. Especially on social media you see restoration shops whose owners are being sued, with even some of those owners ending up in jail, for various fraud and theft charges. These cases involving incarceration are by far the most extreme of what can happen when you take your car to the wrong shop for restoration, but they do occur.
How do these things happen and how do these shops stay in business for years? After talking about this very topic for the last few days with friends in the restoration business, as well as with some of my biggest insurance clients, I think I have the answer. My best guess is that when, say, a well known billionaire car collector takes his Ferrari to a shop for restoration and encounters the same thing as my friend with the Maserati, the money he basically set on fire can just be easily written off as a simple accounting error. On top of that, no one wants to look like a fool in the collector car hobby or have people know they were taken advantage of, so the owner decides to just not talk about it. As a result, the shop stays in business until someone gets angry enough to take them down by pressing charges and suing the shop. This does not happen much and I am betting that there are some shops that are getting away with this continuously.
Staff at Sport and SpecialtyStaff at Paul Russell and Company
This is one of the most important takeaways of the story. There are quite a few great restoration shops out there. The sad fact is that the bad shops taint the entire restoration shop world and that’s unfair. It would also help if the owners of cars followed the steps I’ll be outlining below, then they would never have been in the situation. Having someone you know tell you how good the work at a specific shop is does not mean that that is a good shop. You need to do your homework for your restoration.
BeforeAfter
First, let me define what a restoration is and is not. Restoring a car means rebuilding the car to the exact condition it was when it left the assembly line. This includes every single system in that car is rebuilt, replaced, or restored and it’s a very expensive proposition. Unfortunately the type of car doesn’t really increase or decrease the price, because it’s the TIME involved that is costly. It takes about the same amount of man hours to restore a 1965 Ford Mustang as it does for an Aston Martin DB5.
Next, quality of restorations do not vary. If what you are looking for is a nice driver level car, then stop reading the rest of this story and simply buy a nice driver example of the car you want. There is no such thing as a “driver level” restoration. When people say that what they really mean is a paint job with some interior and mechanical work. That car is not a restored car. A restored car, according to Paul Russell owner of Paul Russell and Company, is when the car is completely dissembled and every system is redone.
It is very expensive to get from this…to this. Yes they are the same car
You need to know in advance that car restoration is not for the faint hearted, and it is never — I repeat — never inexpensive. There are no bargains on restorations, only bad restorations or good restorations.
Before You Start: Ask yourself these questions.
Why are you restoring the specific car? Can you buy an example of that exact year and model that is freshly restored by a competent shop. If so then buy that car. If the car is special either due to its history or just has some sentimental value to you then go for it. Also if you like the process of restoring cars and the value of the car at the end of a restoration is not an issue then go ahead.
Can really afford to restore a car? I would say that in 2024 dollars a proper restoration of any car, even that aforementioned 1965 Mustang, is likely to cost at a minimum $100,000 and could cost twice that amount. If you are getting a restoration for less I would be concerned.
Aston martin DB Mk3 owner visiting his car during the restoration process at Sport and Specialty
Are you willing to be involved in the process? Restoring a car requires the owner of the car to be involved in the process. I would advise going to the shop to see the car in progress at least monthly. If you are unable, or unwilling, to do this I would not consider having any car restored. You have to be a part of the process or chances are you won’t be happy with the outcome.
Picking a Shop: Research restoration shops
The next step in the process is how to pick a shop to restore your car. This part can be a lot of fun! If you have a British car, start researching shops that specialize in British cars. It is fine if they take on other projects, but see where their focus is and their expertise lies. Make a list of 3-5 different shops that sound like they do great work. Go to a lot of car shows or concours events, and if you see a car like yours at the show that is in excellent condition, find out what shop did the work. Ask that owner if they know other people who had cars restored at that shop and connect with them. Great shops like Sport & Specialty and Paul Russell and Company have a great reputation due to the work they have done and are proud of that work. Go see some of their work.
Great shops can look like thisAnd they can look like this
After you have narrowed down your list, it’s time for a visit. Call ahead for an appointment and then visit each shop on your list to see how they work. Think of this as the shop’s job screening interview. You will be employing them, so treat it as such. Talk to the owner and asked to be introduced to the workers. Is the shop clean? Is it well organized? Ask how each shop updates the client on the progress. Ask if they do monthly progress reports with photos included. In addition ask how each shop bills. If the shop bills monthly on a time and materials basis, you are likely at a well run shop. If the shop you are visiting wants an up front deposit, simply say thank you and leave, as the best shops will not require this.
Paul Russell restored BMW 507Sport and Specialty restored Ferrari 330 GT 2+2
Finally, ask the shop if they will give you references from prior restoration clients. If possible get contact information for newer as well as older clients. After you get this information contact those clients to ask about their experience. If you can, go and see a few of the cars they had restored in person to get an idea of what the quality of their work is. If it passes inspection, then you have a good shop. A caveat to this that may sound a bit weird is that if during the interview process one of the owners is unhappy with the shop, do not make this a reason to avoid the shop. Find out, if you can, what they did not like. If the answer is that it cost too much, ask them how the car turned out. If they love the quality of the work, then you still probably have the right shop and the unhappy client was likely one that did not understand the costs of restoration of a car. Remember, as stated above, restorations are expensive.
The Work Begins: The Restoration itself
After choosing the shop, meet with them to get your car into their schedule. If it is a good shop there will be a waiting list, so be ready for them to tell you that they cannot get to your car immediately. Every truly great shop has a waiting list. Discuss the timing with them and ask for a date that you can bring the car to them. When that is scheduled, you are on your way!
If it’s a good shop they are not likely to give you a set schedule until the car has been taken apart. This is information the owner and the workers at the shop will not have until they get the car apart and evaluated. After they have done this, they should give you a rough timeline for the work with an estimated completion date. Keep in mind that with old cars things can go wrong. Sometimes new parts don’t fit properly, parts are delayed, and machine shops are just as busy at the restoration shops are, so schedules can be pushed a bit. This is pretty normal, but you should go in expecting this.
Paul Russell happy crewSport and Specialty happy crew
While the car is being restored, let the owner know that you will be visiting as the work progresses. When you go to the shop bring doughnuts or offer to buy the workers lunch. This lets them know you care about your car and care about the work they are doing. You are basically the CEO of the project and people like to be treated well, so when you are thoughtful it pays dividends. While there ask the owner and the technicians how things are going. You will learn so much about your car by doing this and in the process build your relationship with that car.
At the end of the restoration when you pick up the car, I would consider giving each member of the staff who worked on it a cash bonus. In addition thank them for their work and point out the things that you like about the work.
The DB MK3 beforeThe DB Mk3 after
I know this story is a bit long, but if the people who have had bad experiences followed this process, they would not have the issues that unfolded. The keys to this entire process are research and involvement. If you do all of these things you are going to love the car the shop delivers, and you will be well on your way to winning a few awards at concours events.
The big news for Ford Motor Company in the mid-1960s was of course the new Mustang. But we can’t forget to recognize some of the other vehicles that shared showroom floors with Ford’s revolutionary pony car. This was one of them.
“Fully restored with only 77,220 original miles on this factory 289 V8 and Cruise-O-Matic three-speed transmission,” the listing says.
Classified as a “coupe utility,” the Ranchero was produced from 1957 through 1979 across seven distinct generations. The second generation, ranging from 1960 through 1965, was technically called the Falcon Ranchero because it was based on Ford’s compact Falcon underpinnings. Engineers started with the two-door sedan delivery and transformed it into a light-duty pickup truck. The idea was to market the car as a practical, yet capable vehicle that was priced more cheaply than a full-sized pickup. Speaking of the price point, some of Ford’s marketing materials at the time said things like, “Looks like a million, but you needn’t be a millionaire to own it!”
Included in the listing is a walk-around video showing the exterior, interior, and engine bay. The car looks to be largely original with exception of a dual exhaust system and a set of chrome five-spoke wheels wrapped in a set of Ironman tires. The seller says that the car was acquired from an estate sale and has undergone recent mechanical services including replacement of the carburetor, fuel tank, tires, brakes, and battery.
One unique thing about this Ranchero is that 1965 was the only year from the second-generation Ranchero when the 289cid Windsor V8 was offered. That motor produced plenty of power for a compact truck. Load capacity was rated by the factory at 800 pounds. That number was a far cry from some of Ford’s full-size pickups (which could carry upwards of 4,000 pounds or more). However, the reality was that most people’s occasional truck-use needs did not warrant a great deal of capacity. The same idea holds true today, which is why smaller crossover-based pickups are so common.
“Car is in mint condition; we also have the original hubcaps, brochure, and wiring diagram,” the seller says.
Sure, a 1965 Mustang will turn heads, but a 1965 Ranchero can double as an occasional workhorse!
Did you know your favorite car sucks? Indeed, what you like is irrelevant to our lives. Like the sports team that’s your favorite because they’re from your hometown, your favorite car has no logic and purpose and, therefore, sucks. How’s that for a topic for AutoHunter’s Drive the Bid Podcast? While you try to control your temper, watch or listen to the below podcast because you may just find yourself agreeing with Luke Lamendola and me.
For news, we discuss Porsche’s new Macan EV – another vehicle that sucks. After all, who puts a Turbo badge on a vehicle without a turbocharger? Plus, it seems Porsche will be building the ICE version that’s based on the old one, so we are left scratching our heads until we learn more about Porsche’s plans.
AutoHunter Cinema has plenty of other videos and podcasts created by the experts behind ClassicCars.com, the world’s largest online collector car marketplace. AutoHunter brings forth a dedicated live customer support team, quicker auction listings and exclusive benefits for both buyers and sellers.
Featured on AutoHunter, the online auction platform driven by ClassicCars.com, is this 1963 Mercury Meteor S-33 two-door hardtop. Last registered in 1972, this mid-size Merc is powered by the Lightning 260 V8 backed by a Merc-O-Matic automatic transmission. Features include bucket seats, console, power steering, AM radio, and more. Finished in black with red interior, this Meteor is being sold with a clear title from the selling dealership.
The exterior is painted Presidential Black (code A) complemented by longitudinal chrome trim with red inserts. Other exterior features include wheel well and rocker molding, and rear fender-mounted antenna.
Fourteen-inch black steel wheels with tri-color Mercury wheel covers are wrapped in 205/75 whitewall radial tires.
The code 55 interior features red front bucket seats with center console, which was a part of the S-33 trim level. Features include console cubby, power steering, column-mounted automatic shifter, and AM radio.
The instrument panel includes a 110-mph speedometer plus gauges for the fuel, oil pressure, generator, and water temperature. The odometer reads 70,760 miles.
The engine is the top option for the Meteor, the 164-horsepower Lightning 260 V8 topped by a two-barrel carburetor. It is paired to a two-speed Merc-O-Matic automatic transmission. Engine features include red air cleaner housing and valve covers.
This 1963 Meteor features an independent front suspension and solid rear-drive axle. Brakes are of the four-wheel drum variety. Expelled gasses are routed through a single exhaust to the rear. A walk-around and test-drive video can be seen below.
The auction for this 1963 Mercury Meteor S-33 two-door hardtop ends Friday, May 10, 2024 at 11:15 a.m. (PDT).
Are you a classic truck enthusiast who can’t resist the allure of vintage Ford pickups? If so, get ready to have your dreams come true with the Classic Truck Dream Giveaway brought to you by CJ Pony Parts!
Picture this: a stunning 1968 Ford F-250 work truck, now over 55 years old, meticulously restored and upgraded to deliver unparalleled performance on today’s roads. This long-bed beauty retains all the timeless charm of ’60s-era Ford trucks, from its gleaming chromed front bumper to the iconic Ford lettering on the tailgate. But don’t be fooled by its classic appearance – under the hood lies a powerhouse waiting to be unleashed.
Prepare to be blown away by the heart of this hauler – a stroked, fuel-injected chromed-out 351W engine (now 408ci) that churns out 400 hp and 500 lb-ft of torque! Paired with a five-speed stick-shift overdrive and a McLeod clutch, this Ford F-250 offers a driving experience like no other. And with modern amenities like a custom-styled leather interior, in-dash retro-styled gauges, Vintage Air A/C and a Classic Auto Sound receiver, every journey is bound to be a FORD-tastic!
If you’re looking for a timeless classic truck that you turn the key and go, go, go, then this it. Click hereto get your entries to win.
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The Bonneville was at the top of the Pontiac hierarchy ever since it became a mainstream model in 1958. Yet, in 1971, Pontiac decided to insert a model above the Bonneville. Why ruin the equity of a long-standing model? Our Pick of the Day is one of those curious cars, a 1972 Grand Ville convertible. It is listed for sale on ClassicCars.com by a dealership in Grand Rapids, Michigan. (Click the link to view the listing)
1958 Bonneville
When the Bonneville first hit the streets in 1957, it was a limited-edition convertible equipped with fuel injection, which was quite a technical feature for the time. For 1958, Pontiac introduced a mainstreamed Bonneville model, available as a hardtop and convertible. With the introduction of the Wide-Track Pontiacs for 1959, the Bonneville expanded into a complete series that included a four-door hardtop plus a station wagon.
While the Catalina was always the strongest seller, the Bonneville had the strongest image and consistently outsold the mid-range Star Chief (later, Star Chief Executive and Executive). So why compromise the Bonneville’s name in the market? That’s what a lot of people have asked themselves many years later. Truth be told, Pontiac discontinued the Executive after 1970, so it needed a new mid-range series. Rather than creating a name that would resonate with Pontiac, the powers-that-be both created the Catalina Brougham and pushed the Bonneville down a notch with the Grand Ville. Now, Pontiac’s strongest full-size name was nudged into the shadows.
Then, in 1976, realizing its gaffe, Pontiac retired the Grand Ville name and replaced it with the Bonneville Brougham. Another gaffe would follow in 1982 when Pontiac moved the Bonneville to the mid-size G-body . . . but that’s another story for another time.
This 75,634-mile Springfield Green 1972 Pontiac Grand Ville convertible is one of 2,213 built and is equipped with a white power top. This generation of full-size Pontiacs were introduced for the 1971 model year but, for 1972, Pontiac shed the neo-classical styling and reverted to more conventional look, bearing a passing resemblance to the Grand Prix. Interior features include a green power front bench seat with center arm rest. Other options include Rally II wheels, cornering lights, air conditioning, remote driver-side mirror, power windows, Realistic AM/FM/cassette (original AM/FM Stereo is included), and matching top boot. Power comes from a 455 four-barrel with single exhaust.
According to the seller, this Grand Ville has had the same owner for 24 years. For $21,900, how many more years do you think you can enjoy this classic American-style convertible?
The Toyota FJ40, dubbed the “40 Series,” initially launched in model year 1960. Worldwide, it lived on for a monumental 40 years until being discontinued after 2001. The old saying about, “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it,” applied: the FJ was known for its robust powertrains and its all-terrain capabilities.
“A few know the feeling of owning a classic; it can become an obsession,” the listing begins. “I need space, so I am selling my 1969 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 convertible with a removable top.”
The seller goes on to say that the vehicle is “fully restored as it deserves.” The exterior was resprayed in brown metallic and is said to be of show-quality. The interior was also refurbished in saddle-colored vinyl upholstery. The rear passenger compartment has a unique layout with dual inward-facing benches. The seller says that the Goodyear Wrangler raised-white-letter tires have been replaced — including the full-sized spare which is located on a swing-away mount out back.
The 40 Series platform got its start as a short-wheelbase, two-door sport-utility vehicle, and in later years, it was available in both four-door and pickup configurations. Today’s featured vehicle boasts a tan soft top with vinyl windows with provisions for cargo-area access via the barn doors at the rear.
Under the hood, power comes from a 3.9-liter inline-six mated with a three-speed manual transmission and a two-speed transfer case. A number of other motors were available throughout the 40 Series’ lifetime, including many that were diesel-fueled. The odometer on today’s vehicle shows just 3 kilometers accrued, although true mileage on the chassis is not known.
I enjoy that the seller apologized in the listing for his dogs getting in on the photography session. Image 19 shows the pups playfully scampering around in the background. This FJ40 would make the perfect adventure-seeking rig to take to the wilderness with the pups and a picnic. With summer just around the corner, it is the perfect time to pick up a classic SUV that is both collectible and versatile.
The asking price is $32,000, and the pups are not included!
There were not many imported cars in the United States before World War II. That changed once servicemen and women brought back funky sports cars from the UK after the war. When a strange German brand established a sales network in the U.S., everything changed. What did the ensuing decade look like? Thanks to a clipping from the April 6, 1964, issue of Automotive News, we can get an idea.
1964 Volvos
By 1964, the American marketplace for imports was already in its second phase, as many European brands smelled Volkswagen’s success and tried to cash in, but many had already left when the 1960s dawned. What’s interesting is how many of the more novel brands continued to sell vehicles through 1963: DKW, NSU, and Skoda all were prolific brands, but their presence in the American market was never strong. Plus, there are several brands under Miscellaneous that aren’t specified – I imagine Panhard and Humber would be two.
Some thoughts pop into my head while looking at these numbers:
It’s been my impression British Fords were the most popular import pre-VW, and the numbers possibly bear this out, but the Ford’s dealer network was not enough to sustain the brand in good numbers.
Ditto Buick dealerships selling the Opel brand, though I suspect Opel’s portfolio in 1963 was not as strong as it was in the late 1950s. Of course, Opel would eventually have several good sellers well into the 1970s.
Renault was the biggest threat to Volkswagen in the 1950s but could not sustain itself.
Datsun had much better standing than Toyota, but Toyota’s fortunes would change within a few years.
Many of the good sellers from the UK continued to be sports cars. Note the strength of MG and Triumph in 1963.
Volvo’s performance was consistently impressive compared to other Europeans.
It is interesting to know Citroen’s presence continue into the 1970s considering the marque never sold many cars in the U.S. There are other brands that sold better yet disappeared, such as Hillman.
It seems that most of the brands that left the market by 1963 were German, including the Ford Taunus.
1964 Hillman Minx
Of course, the market would narrow to a few, while import sales would only increase market share, especially the Japanese brands. Take a gander at the above list and see what kind of inferences you can make. Enjoy!
One of the many collector cars that crossed the auction block at WestWorld of Scottsdale in January was a Dodge Viper SRT/10 that, according to the seller, was the only one manufactured for its year in its specific color combination and with the Aero Package. In the video below, Luke Lamendola and I discuss some of the merits of this iconic machine.
Viper Backstory
The Viper is one of the “poster cars” that was an object of desire for car enthusiasts of any age. Like so many other exotic sports cars, it made very little sense from a practicality perspective. It was a two-door, two-seat roadster that was first brought to market in 1992 with a canvas roof, vinyl side windows, minimal driver aids, and no available air conditioning (at least until 1994).
None of that mattered. What mattered, instead, was that the Viper had a 400-horsepower V10 and a 165-mph top speed. It was a supercar built for raw, exhilarating driving experiences.
Horsepower Wars
By the time the second generation, or ZB, Viper came to market in 2003, it had been heavily redesigned by Dodge’s performance division, Street & Racing Technology (SRT). Engineers had taken a “bigger is better” approach when it came to the powertrain, and the engine grew to 8.3-liters with a rating of 500 horsepower. Again in 2008, the size ramped up – this time to 8.4-liters. At 600 horsepower and 560 lb-ft of torque, it was now playing in the big leagues with the likes of the Eaton-supercharged Chevrolet Corvette ZR1. Just like the heated muscle car wars of the 1960s, automakers were continually battling.
Featured Viper
Offered as Lot Number 972, the Viper SRT/10 was an unmistakable piece of machinery in the Barrett-Jackson salon showcase. According to documentation that accompanied the vehicle, it was a two-owner car with up-to-date maintenance history and garage-kept preservation. Speaking of preservation, the hood, mirrors, and rocker panels were protected with clear paint protection film to keep the car looking fresh. The odometer showed just 28,713 miles, and I guarantee the prior owners wore a perma-grin for each and every mile.
There were a few important changes that happened with the Viper for model year 2008. The former TREMEC T-56 six-speed manual transmission was replaced with a TREMEC TR-6060. The rear end received a ViscoLok limited-slip differential, the exhaust system was reworked, and there were upgrades to the electrical system and fuel system including a 180-amp alternator and a high-capacity filtration system. The enhancements took an already-great platform and made it even better.
“Seeing this Viper in person is a dream come true,” Luke said. “We are super lucky to be here.”
I wholeheartedly agreed! And by the way, the winning bid for the car was $107,800. Perhaps this was someone’s long-term dream car that they were finally able to acquire. We extend our sincere congratulations to that lucky owner! Enjoy your 600-horsepower snake.
Of all the classic pony cars out there, the most aggressive looking one of them all is now and always has been the ‘Cuda. It is a car that looks like it means serious business standing still and delivers on that promise when you drive one. They just scream cool in the best possible way.
The 1971 Plymouth ‘Cuda presented here looks to be an absolutely tremendous example of the model. The seller states that is the result of an $180,000+ restoration. It is powered by a 383ci V8 backed by a TorqueFlite three-speed automatic transmission. Finished in In-Violet Metallic with white billboard stripes over a White and Black interior, this ‘Cuda comes from the selling dealer with the original broadcast sheet, the original warranty pamphlet, and a clear title.
The exterior of this car looks to be spectacular. It is painted, as stated above, In-Violet Metallic (code FC7) what was also known as Plum Crazy when used on Dodge vehicles. It includes the ‘Cuda-standard performance hood (code J54), Hood pins (code J45), tinted windows (code G11) and a remote-control driver-side racing mirror with chrome cap (code G33). The only exterior modification from new is that the billboard stripes were installed in place of the original black side moldings (code V5X). It rides on 15-inch Rallye wheels with F60-15 Goodyear Polyglas GT bias-ply tires.
The interior as nice as the exterior and is finished in White and Black (code H4XW) vinyl upholstery. It is equipped with power steering, an AM radio (code R11), and a rear seat speaker (code R31) The only interior modifications from stock are that the original front bench seat has been replaced with nicer and more desirable stock bucket seats and the very desirable factory center console.
Under the hood is the cars reportedly original 383ci Super Commando V8 (code E65) that was factory-rated at 300 horsepower and 410 lb-ft of torque with an original single Holley 4-barrel carburetor. The engine is backed by its original TorqueFlite 3-speed automatic transmission.
This car is offered with its original broadcast sheet and original warranty pamphlet.
If you are looking for a super nice ‘Cuda with modifications that only work to make the car better, look no further than this one.
How to Avoid a Restoration Nightmare
The other morning I got a call from a client who had to rescue his very rare Maserati Ghibli SS convertible from a restoration shop. More than three years ago he had sent them the car, and over that time had paid the shop more than $300,000 for the restoration. Initially he heard from them somewhat regularly, usually about another payment needed. About 19 months later, and no updates for quite awhile, he became concerned. He called me and asked if I could help.
After I made many calls to the shop owner I finally got him on the phone. The pictures he sent me of the car in process scared me, especially due to the amount of time he had the car and how much money the client had spent. It seemed as if little had been done to the car in the three years and definitely not $300,000 worth of work was done.
I needed to get the car out of that shop and as quickly as possible. I immediately connected the car owner with my friend, and restorer, John Saccameno from Sport & Specialty restorations. He agreed to get in his shop truck to drive over to the shop himself. John was let in by an assistant, and then saw this rare and valuable Maserati convertible in pieces. John knows cars well and has done many award wining restorations, and what he saw was a complete mess. The car was in pieces with a terrible paint job that was done over existing body rust that has not been fixed. The parts taken off were in boxes with many missing and supposedly in other locations. John called the owner immediately explaining what he saw and the loaded the car with all its parts onto his trailer. He then called the other shops involved to locate the parts off site, picked them up in two other states and headed back to his own shop in Illinois.
After getting the car to his shop he quickly realized that despite the money spent, the little work that was done was terrible. He informed the owner that his rare Ghibli was in such a state that the only solution was to start all over with a restoration, which he is now doing at Sport & Specialty.
You need to know that this is not an isolated incident. In fact I have four other stories from the last three months that are the same, and none of those owners were out less than $100k with no real work completed to justify the money they had spent.
If you are in some of the same Facebook groups and on mailing lists as me, then you might have heard about some other experiences like this. Especially on social media you see restoration shops whose owners are being sued, with even some of those owners ending up in jail, for various fraud and theft charges. These cases involving incarceration are by far the most extreme of what can happen when you take your car to the wrong shop for restoration, but they do occur.
How do these things happen and how do these shops stay in business for years? After talking about this very topic for the last few days with friends in the restoration business, as well as with some of my biggest insurance clients, I think I have the answer. My best guess is that when, say, a well known billionaire car collector takes his Ferrari to a shop for restoration and encounters the same thing as my friend with the Maserati, the money he basically set on fire can just be easily written off as a simple accounting error. On top of that, no one wants to look like a fool in the collector car hobby or have people know they were taken advantage of, so the owner decides to just not talk about it. As a result, the shop stays in business until someone gets angry enough to take them down by pressing charges and suing the shop. This does not happen much and I am betting that there are some shops that are getting away with this continuously.
This is one of the most important takeaways of the story. There are quite a few great restoration shops out there. The sad fact is that the bad shops taint the entire restoration shop world and that’s unfair. It would also help if the owners of cars followed the steps I’ll be outlining below, then they would never have been in the situation. Having someone you know tell you how good the work at a specific shop is does not mean that that is a good shop. You need to do your homework for your restoration.
Before
First, let me define what a restoration is and is not. Restoring a car means rebuilding the car to the exact condition it was when it left the assembly line. This includes every single system in that car is rebuilt, replaced, or restored and it’s a very expensive proposition. Unfortunately the type of car doesn’t really increase or decrease the price, because it’s the TIME involved that is costly. It takes about the same amount of man hours to restore a 1965 Ford Mustang as it does for an Aston Martin DB5.
Next, quality of restorations do not vary. If what you are looking for is a nice driver level car, then stop reading the rest of this story and simply buy a nice driver example of the car you want. There is no such thing as a “driver level” restoration. When people say that what they really mean is a paint job with some interior and mechanical work. That car is not a restored car. A restored car, according to Paul Russell owner of Paul Russell and Company, is when the car is completely dissembled and every system is redone.
You need to know in advance that car restoration is not for the faint hearted, and it is never — I repeat — never inexpensive. There are no bargains on restorations, only bad restorations or good restorations.
Before You Start: Ask yourself these questions.
Why are you restoring the specific car? Can you buy an example of that exact year and model that is freshly restored by a competent shop. If so then buy that car. If the car is special either due to its history or just has some sentimental value to you then go for it. Also if you like the process of restoring cars and the value of the car at the end of a restoration is not an issue then go ahead.
Can really afford to restore a car? I would say that in 2024 dollars a proper restoration of any car, even that aforementioned 1965 Mustang, is likely to cost at a minimum $100,000 and could cost twice that amount. If you are getting a restoration for less I would be concerned.
Are you willing to be involved in the process? Restoring a car requires the owner of the car to be involved in the process. I would advise going to the shop to see the car in progress at least monthly. If you are unable, or unwilling, to do this I would not consider having any car restored. You have to be a part of the process or chances are you won’t be happy with the outcome.
Picking a Shop: Research restoration shops
The next step in the process is how to pick a shop to restore your car. This part can be a lot of fun! If you have a British car, start researching shops that specialize in British cars. It is fine if they take on other projects, but see where their focus is and their expertise lies. Make a list of 3-5 different shops that sound like they do great work. Go to a lot of car shows or concours events, and if you see a car like yours at the show that is in excellent condition, find out what shop did the work. Ask that owner if they know other people who had cars restored at that shop and connect with them. Great shops like Sport & Specialty and Paul Russell and Company have a great reputation due to the work they have done and are proud of that work. Go see some of their work.
After you have narrowed down your list, it’s time for a visit. Call ahead for an appointment and then visit each shop on your list to see how they work. Think of this as the shop’s job screening interview. You will be employing them, so treat it as such. Talk to the owner and asked to be introduced to the workers. Is the shop clean? Is it well organized? Ask how each shop updates the client on the progress. Ask if they do monthly progress reports with photos included. In addition ask how each shop bills. If the shop bills monthly on a time and materials basis, you are likely at a well run shop. If the shop you are visiting wants an up front deposit, simply say thank you and leave, as the best shops will not require this.
Finally, ask the shop if they will give you references from prior restoration clients. If possible get contact information for newer as well as older clients. After you get this information contact those clients to ask about their experience. If you can, go and see a few of the cars they had restored in person to get an idea of what the quality of their work is. If it passes inspection, then you have a good shop. A caveat to this that may sound a bit weird is that if during the interview process one of the owners is unhappy with the shop, do not make this a reason to avoid the shop. Find out, if you can, what they did not like. If the answer is that it cost too much, ask them how the car turned out. If they love the quality of the work, then you still probably have the right shop and the unhappy client was likely one that did not understand the costs of restoration of a car. Remember, as stated above, restorations are expensive.
The Work Begins: The Restoration itself
After choosing the shop, meet with them to get your car into their schedule. If it is a good shop there will be a waiting list, so be ready for them to tell you that they cannot get to your car immediately. Every truly great shop has a waiting list. Discuss the timing with them and ask for a date that you can bring the car to them. When that is scheduled, you are on your way!
If it’s a good shop they are not likely to give you a set schedule until the car has been taken apart. This is information the owner and the workers at the shop will not have until they get the car apart and evaluated. After they have done this, they should give you a rough timeline for the work with an estimated completion date. Keep in mind that with old cars things can go wrong. Sometimes new parts don’t fit properly, parts are delayed, and machine shops are just as busy at the restoration shops are, so schedules can be pushed a bit. This is pretty normal, but you should go in expecting this.
While the car is being restored, let the owner know that you will be visiting as the work progresses. When you go to the shop bring doughnuts or offer to buy the workers lunch. This lets them know you care about your car and care about the work they are doing. You are basically the CEO of the project and people like to be treated well, so when you are thoughtful it pays dividends. While there ask the owner and the technicians how things are going. You will learn so much about your car by doing this and in the process build your relationship with that car.
At the end of the restoration when you pick up the car, I would consider giving each member of the staff who worked on it a cash bonus. In addition thank them for their work and point out the things that you like about the work.
The DB MK3 before
I know this story is a bit long, but if the people who have had bad experiences followed this process, they would not have the issues that unfolded. The keys to this entire process are research and involvement. If you do all of these things you are going to love the car the shop delivers, and you will be well on your way to winning a few awards at concours events.