Something about the lead image on this truck’s classified ad lured me in. The lighting, the paint color, and a general curiosity about the details of this old Chevy truck were irresistible. I’m glad I dug a little deeper. Turns out, that brilliant finish which caught my eye requires “five coats of paint over epoxy sealer, finished in endless coats of clear,” according to the listing. No wonder it looks like liquid metal.
The listing is comprised in bullet-point form and gives details about the ins and outs of the build, which, based on the description, was all-encompassing. In fact, it might be easier to talk about what wasn’t upgraded from the truck’s original equipment. First and foremost, the truck rides on a TCI boxed frame. In place of the original architecture, we find a set of Ridetech adjustable coilovers all the way around, and a four-link suspension in the rear.
For model year 1955, Chevrolet pickup trucks moved into what became known as the “Task Force” generation. Light-duty trucks were classified as model 3100 for shortbeds and 3200 for the longbed variants. One of the characteristic design elements that rolled out was an eggcrate grille to replace the slatted arrangement of the previous Advance Design trucks.
Momentum for this eye-catching ride comes from a GM Performance 383cid stroker V8 with an Edelbrock 750cfm carburetor, and momentum is transferred rearward through a TCI 700R4 four-speed automatic transmission and a nine-inch Currie rear end with a 3.93:1 gear ratio. Performance upgrades include a March polished pulley system and a Magnaflow stainless-steel exhaust system.
A lot of restomods have robust drivetrains, but many builders forget to give proper attention to braking systems which are equally important – if not more so. This truck comes with a set of Wilwood 12-inch drilled and slotted rotors with four-piston calipers and stainless-steel brake lines.
The capstone of this entire build (at least in my opinion) is that striking exterior appearance. “Flawless paint and body work, finished in a medium metallic gray,” the seller says. Even the bed’s tiger maple wood has been coated with four coats of clear. Shiny doesn’t even begin to describe it.
The asking price is lofty, but as the saying goes, “try building one for less.” The seller seeks $125,000.
An example of one of the most unusual Formula 1 cars in history is up for grabs.
This 1977 Tyrrell P34 six-wheeler will be one of the featured lots at RM Sotheby’s upcoming auction in Monaco. Scheduled to be offered for sale May 11, it’s an artifact of a bygone era where small, modestly funded F1 teams could pull off big technical innovations.
Tyrrell won multiple championships with Jackie Stewart in the early 1970s, but as the decade drew to a close the team was looking for something new to help it remain competitive. Designer Derek Gardner’s answer was a six-wheeled car with four small front wheels that dramatically reduced aerodynamic drag compared to taller, conventionally sized wheels. The effect was thought to be equivalent to extracting an additional 40 hp from the P34’s Cosworth DFV engine.
1977 Tyrrell P34 chassis number 8 (photo via RM Sotheby’s)
With Goodyear developing custom tires for the 10-inch front wheels, the P34 made its competition debut at the 1976 Spanish Grand Prix. Patrick Depailler qualified third—well ahead of teammate Jody Scheckter, who only managed 14th in the four-wheeled Tyrrell 007.
After switching to the P34, Scheckter put the six-wheeler on pole at that year’s Swedish Grand Prix, then led a Tyrrell 1-2 victory, with Depailler finishing second. That was as good as it got for the P34, however. It was raced less successfully in 1977 before Tyrrell switched back to a four-wheeled design for 1978. Scheckter would go on to win the 1979 F1 Drivers’ Championship with Ferrari, while Tyrrell would begin a long decline. The team entered its last race in 1998, although its assets were used to create what is now the Mercedes-AMG team.
The P34 remains the only six-wheeled car to race in F1. March and Williams tested six-wheeled cars, but never raced them. And unlike the P34, those designs used conventionally sized wheels all around, with two powered rear axles and a single unpowered front axle. So the P34 is truly a one-off unicorn design.
1977 Tyrrell P34 chassis number 8 (photo via RM Sotheby’s)
The car up for auction—chassis number 8—comes from Scheckter’s own collection. It isn’t one of the cars he raced, however. It was constructed as a spare tub, assembled into a complete car in the 1990s by Paul Lanzante, and passed through several owners before being purchased by Scheckter.
RM Sotheby’s expects chassis number 8 to sell for between 450,000 and 650,000 euros—approximately $485,000 to $700,000 at current exchange rates. It may not have competition history, but this car’s sheer rarity should justify a high final bid.
The beauty of a custom-built restomod is that it blends vintage looks with modern power and conveniences. Back in the 1930s, things like power steering, CD sound systems, air conditioning, power disc brakes, and independent front suspensions weren’t part of vehicle specification sheets. But today, you can seamlessly blend old and new for the best of both worlds. Case in point: this pearlescent teal 1938 Chevrolet Master. It is being offered by a dealer in St. Louis, Missouri, and the auction will end on Tuesday.
The listing says that the car’s aerodynamic body is all-steel. The Master launched in 1933 on what General Motors called the A-body platform. It was available in various configurations over the next decade or so, including a coupe, a cabriolet, a sedan, and even a pickup truck. (These were the days before pickups and passenger cars had distinct underpinnings.)
Most notably, there have been some very custom touches to set this Master apart from any other car even remotely like it: The bumpers have been removed, the door and trunk lid handles have been shaved, the running boards have been painted body-color, the rear fenders have been molded, and a pair of flush-fit custom taillights have been added.
Under the hood, power comes from a later-model 350cid small-block V8 that has been upgraded with a FiTech fuel injection system, chrome valve covers, an aluminum intake manifold, and tube exhaust headers. A three-speed automatic transmission sends power to a set of American Racing Torq Thrust wheels at the rear end. The drivetrain sounds great! Be sure to check out the two-minute video on the Revheads YouTube channel which shows a start-up, a rev, an exterior walk-around of this one-off Chevy.
By the way, Revheads has listed a number of vehicles on AutoHunter in the past and has a special story worth sharing. The Sales Director, Damon Bounds, has been an automotive enthusiast since growing up in the 1980s. He was influenced and inspired by his father who he called “Pops.” Damon moved into a new chapter by launching a marketplace for collector cars that adopted a brick-and-mortar presence in 2023. Today, Revheads has a customer-centered approach: “With transparency, education, and a little courage, anyone can appreciate the unique experience of stepping back in time and experiencing transportation like our ancestors did,” he said.
Back when both hardtops and cars with B-pillars were a thing, the latter was the entry-level and cost a few dollars less than its pillarless brethren. Yet if you look at Oldsmobile’s 1971 lineup, the two-door Cutlass Hardtop Coupe was the cheapest two-door of the series. Doesn’t jibe with prevailing wisdom, right? Our Pick of the Day is one of those pricier pillared coupes, a 1971 Oldsmobile Cutlass S Sports Coupe. It is listed on ClassicCars.com by a dealership in Greene, Iowa. (Click the link to view the listing)
1970 Cutlasses and F-85, left to right
The value-leading F-85 lived on in 1971, but it was only available as a Town Sedan as Oldsmobile clearly was phasing out the model. The next step up was the Cutlass, and the Lansing company’s cheapest two-door was the Cutlass Hardtop Coupe. It cost $2900 with a six, or $3,021 with a V8. You could move up to the Cutlass S for something fancier, which added rear armrests with accent moldings, rear ashtrays. floor carpeting, chrome body-side, rocker panel, and wheel-opening moldings, bright moldings for front bench plus foam padding front and rear, louvered hood, and recessed windshield wipers.
Interestingly, Oldsmobile offered a Cutlass S pillared coupe called the Sports Coupe, as well as a Hardtop Coupe. The Cutlass S Sports Coupe cost $2,957 with a six, or $3,078 with a V8, while the Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe was $3,020 with a six, $3,141 with a V8. Why Oldsmobile decided to offer its cheapest two-door as a hardtop without offering a pillared coupe is anyone’s guess, as a Cutlass Sports Coupe would seem logical. However, that didn’t happen.
As you may have inferred, there were two standard engines depending on whether you preferred a six or V8. The 250cid six, which was quite rare (under 2500 units among all Cutlass and Cutlass S models), was known as the Action-Line 6 and was rated at 145 gross (110 net) horsepower. The V8 was Oldsmobile’s famous L65 Rocket 350 with a two-barrel carburetor. Horsepower was 240 gross (160 net with single exhaust, 175 with duals). The optional L74 four-barrel 350 was rated at 260 gross, or 180 net with single exhaust, 200 with duals). Standard transmission for all engines was a column-mounted three-speed manual, with the M14 heavy-duty three-speed with floor shift and M20 wide-ratio four-speed being available for L74-equipped cars. M38 Turbo Hydra-matic 350 was available for all engines.
If you wanted to get creative, you could order a Cutlass S coupe of some sort with the six and M38, A51 Strato Bucket seats, W26 console with Hurst Dual-Gate shifter, and W35 rear-deck spoiler. Weird things did happen, but is it as weird as Oldsmobile having a hardtop as its cheapest two-door? Nonetheless, this Matador Red 1971 Cutlass S Sports Coupe is not a common sight these days. As one of 4,339 V8 examples built, this Cutlass S is a “nearly original survivor” featuring 39,672 miles on the odometer, according to the seller. “Popping open the hood reveals an authentic, numbers-matching 350cid V8 breathing through a two-barrel carburetor, sitting inside an engine bay so genuine it still has the factory chalk markings.” And check out those standard hubcaps without trim rings! Are those original to the car or they were added by a more recent owner for a Plain Jane look? Hard to tell, but they don’t jibe with the power trunk release – a relative luxury for a post coupe with no other luxuries but, again, stranger things have happened.
Other options include power steering and brakes, AM radio, and driver-side mirror. Honestly, this sounds like a car ordered for dealer stock, perhaps? For $38,995, you can purchase this beauty from the lot and park it in your driveway.
Every year, Mattel partners with various stores to create a special edition run of cars that can only be purchased from those specific stores. In this episode of Collectible Corner we are going to highlight some of the retailers you might recognize with exclusive Hot Wheels and how to spot them. Let us know if the comments below if you’ve found any of these special editions!
Make sure to subscribe to the ClassicCars TV YouTube channel for all episodes of Collectible Corner, as well as see interesting finds and car reviews!
If you had a wad of cash in your pocket, ready to buy a car, would it be challenging if you had more than one vehicle from which to choose? That’s the problem I’m having now (well, not having a wad of cash is another problem) while looking at the below four AutoHunter Picks.
Of course, there are other AutoHunter vehicles from which to choose, but would you favor any of them over these? Go through the AutoHunter and tell us which four you’d single out for the week.
1969 Chevrolet Camaro Z/28 While everyone in high school wanted a Camaro, I looked elsewhere. But with old age comes wisdom, and the Camaro Z/28 is a mighty mouse among giants. No one is going to say it’s a winner at the drags, but I do remember reading the Car and Driver article that claimed no car had more mechanical presence than the Z/28 (along with the 426 Hemi). For that reason alone, I’m dying to drive one.
This 1969 Camaro Z/28 has been documented by renowned expert Jerry McNeish, so we know it’s legit. A previous owner reconfigured the pony car from Fathom Green with a green interior into Burgundy with black/white houndstooth. Though relatively stock, several subtle upgrades seem to have been made for reliability. If you enjoy driving your muscle, this is a good one.
1968 Chevrolet Corvette Convertible Though I prefer the C2, I can only imagine how wild the C3 looked when it was introduced. Underneath, they cars are mostly the same, so there are no surprises other than sitting in one for the first time and appreciating the driving position. Plus, it’s hard to argue against a red Corvette convertible with a manual transmission and tons of presence.
This 1968 Corvette convertible has been within the same family for 41 years, which always has some appeal. It features the standard 300-horsepower 327 paired with a four-speed manual, both numbers-matching. The hue has been changed from Silverstone Silver to red, and the original Gunmetal interior has been replaced with a more conventional Black.
1974 BMW 2002tii I remember a lot of European cars were appearing on the roads with black trim updates which, to my child’s eyes, looked better – witness the Porsche 914, MGs, or this Bimmer. Today, I realize that these cars were federalized to meet new bumper requirements, among other things. You may feel otherwise, but these Bimmers didn’t wear the bumper scarlet letter as poorly as most American cars.
The tii designation of this 1974 BMW 2002 means it’s equipped with fuel injection, adding a dose of reliability for an old car. Like the Corvette above, this one’s been owned for quite a long time, in this case 49 years. Fine features include sunroof, four-speed, and a number of subtle upgrades that make for a nice driver, such as Epsilon wheels, rainbow gradient Recaro seats, and blueprinted engine, among other tweaks.
1955 Pontiac Star Chief Custom Catalina In the early days of hardtops, they were given special designations. In Pontiac’s case, the Catalina was the hardtop of a specific model. Not until 1959 did the Catalina become a proper series, and Pontiac did away with giving a proper name to the hardtop body style. Of course, 1955 was the advent of an all-new Pontiac complete with V8 and style that defied the librarian stereotype of its precursors.
This 1955 Star Chief Custom Catalina features classic 1950s colors with a matching interior (which includes leather trim) that’s been reupholstered. The Strato-Streak 287 V8 is backed by an automatic transmission, like most of them, with emissions exiting through a single exhaust. This was the year that Pontiac performance got its start, crescendo-ing with dual quads in 1956, Tri-Power and fuel injection in 1957, and the 389 in 1959.
The other morning I got a call from a client who had to rescue his very rare Maserati Ghibli SS convertible from a restoration shop. More than three years ago he had sent them the car, and over that time had paid the shop more than $300,000 for the restoration. Initially he heard from them somewhat regularly, usually about another payment needed. About 19 months later, and no updates for quite awhile, he became concerned. He called me and asked if I could help.
After I made many calls to the shop owner I finally got him on the phone. The pictures he sent me of the car in process scared me, especially due to the amount of time he had the car and how much money the client had spent. It seemed as if little had been done to the car in the three years and definitely not $300,000 worth of work was done.
The mess John picked upThese are some of the parts, not organized and filthy
I needed to get the car out of that shop and as quickly as possible. I immediately connected the car owner with my friend, and restorer, John Saccameno from Sport & Specialty restorations. He agreed to get in his shop truck to drive over to the shop himself. John was let in by an assistant, and then saw this rare and valuable Maserati convertible in pieces. John knows cars well and has done many award wining restorations, and what he saw was a complete mess. The car was in pieces with a terrible paint job that was done over existing body rust that has not been fixed. The parts taken off were in boxes with many missing and supposedly in other locations. John called the owner immediately explaining what he saw and the loaded the car with all its parts onto his trailer. He then called the other shops involved to locate the parts off site, picked them up in two other states and headed back to his own shop in Illinois.
After getting the car to his shop he quickly realized that despite the money spent, the little work that was done was terrible. He informed the owner that his rare Ghibli was in such a state that the only solution was to start all over with a restoration, which he is now doing at Sport & Specialty.
Another example. These boxes contain the parts of a M3 Factory DTM carThis is what is inside, nothing labeled or organized
You need to know that this is not an isolated incident. In fact I have four other stories from the last three months that are the same, and none of those owners were out less than $100k with no real work completed to justify the money they had spent.
If you are in some of the same Facebook groups and on mailing lists as me, then you might have heard about some other experiences like this. Especially on social media you see restoration shops whose owners are being sued, with even some of those owners ending up in jail, for various fraud and theft charges. These cases involving incarceration are by far the most extreme of what can happen when you take your car to the wrong shop for restoration, but they do occur.
How do these things happen and how do these shops stay in business for years? After talking about this very topic for the last few days with friends in the restoration business, as well as with some of my biggest insurance clients, I think I have the answer. My best guess is that when, say, a well known billionaire car collector takes his Ferrari to a shop for restoration and encounters the same thing as my friend with the Maserati, the money he basically set on fire can just be easily written off as a simple accounting error. On top of that, no one wants to look like a fool in the collector car hobby or have people know they were taken advantage of, so the owner decides to just not talk about it. As a result, the shop stays in business until someone gets angry enough to take them down by pressing charges and suing the shop. This does not happen much and I am betting that there are some shops that are getting away with this continuously.
Staff at Sport and SpecialtyStaff at Paul Russell and Company
This is one of the most important takeaways of the story. There are quite a few great restoration shops out there. The sad fact is that the bad shops taint the entire restoration shop world and that’s unfair. It would also help if the owners of cars followed the steps I’ll be outlining below, then they would never have been in the situation. Having someone you know tell you how good the work at a specific shop is does not mean that that is a good shop. You need to do your homework for your restoration.
BeforeAfter
First, let me define what a restoration is and is not. Restoring a car means rebuilding the car to the exact condition it was when it left the assembly line. This includes every single system in that car is rebuilt, replaced, or restored and it’s a very expensive proposition. Unfortunately the type of car doesn’t really increase or decrease the price, because it’s the TIME involved that is costly. It takes about the same amount of man hours to restore a 1965 Ford Mustang as it does for an Aston Martin DB5.
Next, quality of restorations do not vary. If what you are looking for is a nice driver level car, then stop reading the rest of this story and simply buy a nice driver example of the car you want. There is no such thing as a “driver level” restoration. When people say that what they really mean is a paint job with some interior and mechanical work. That car is not a restored car. A restored car, according to Paul Russell owner of Paul Russell and Company, is when the car is completely dissembled and every system is redone.
It is very expensive to get from this…to this. Yes they are the same car
You need to know in advance that car restoration is not for the faint hearted, and it is never — I repeat — never inexpensive. There are no bargains on restorations, only bad restorations or good restorations.
Before You Start: Ask yourself these questions.
Why are you restoring the specific car? Can you buy an example of that exact year and model that is freshly restored by a competent shop. If so then buy that car. If the car is special either due to its history or just has some sentimental value to you then go for it. Also if you like the process of restoring cars and the value of the car at the end of a restoration is not an issue then go ahead.
Can really afford to restore a car? I would say that in 2024 dollars a proper restoration of any car, even that aforementioned 1965 Mustang, is likely to cost at a minimum $100,000 and could cost twice that amount. If you are getting a restoration for less I would be concerned.
Aston martin DB Mk3 owner visiting his car during the restoration process at Sport and Specialty
Are you willing to be involved in the process? Restoring a car requires the owner of the car to be involved in the process. I would advise going to the shop to see the car in progress at least monthly. If you are unable, or unwilling, to do this I would not consider having any car restored. You have to be a part of the process or chances are you won’t be happy with the outcome.
Picking a Shop: Research restoration shops
The next step in the process is how to pick a shop to restore your car. This part can be a lot of fun! If you have a British car, start researching shops that specialize in British cars. It is fine if they take on other projects, but see where their focus is and their expertise lies. Make a list of 3-5 different shops that sound like they do great work. Go to a lot of car shows or concours events, and if you see a car like yours at the show that is in excellent condition, find out what shop did the work. Ask that owner if they know other people who had cars restored at that shop and connect with them. Great shops like Sport & Specialty and Paul Russell and Company have a great reputation due to the work they have done and are proud of that work. Go see some of their work.
Great shops can look like thisAnd they can look like this
After you have narrowed down your list, it’s time for a visit. Call ahead for an appointment and then visit each shop on your list to see how they work. Think of this as the shop’s job screening interview. You will be employing them, so treat it as such. Talk to the owner and asked to be introduced to the workers. Is the shop clean? Is it well organized? Ask how each shop updates the client on the progress. Ask if they do monthly progress reports with photos included. In addition ask how each shop bills. If the shop bills monthly on a time and materials basis, you are likely at a well run shop. If the shop you are visiting wants an up front deposit, simply say thank you and leave, as the best shops will not require this.
Paul Russell restored BMW 507Sport and Specialty restored Ferrari 330 GT 2+2
Finally, ask the shop if they will give you references from prior restoration clients. If possible get contact information for newer as well as older clients. After you get this information contact those clients to ask about their experience. If you can, go and see a few of the cars they had restored in person to get an idea of what the quality of their work is. If it passes inspection, then you have a good shop. A caveat to this that may sound a bit weird is that if during the interview process one of the owners is unhappy with the shop, do not make this a reason to avoid the shop. Find out, if you can, what they did not like. If the answer is that it cost too much, ask them how the car turned out. If they love the quality of the work, then you still probably have the right shop and the unhappy client was likely one that did not understand the costs of restoration of a car. Remember, as stated above, restorations are expensive.
The Work Begins: The Restoration itself
After choosing the shop, meet with them to get your car into their schedule. If it is a good shop there will be a waiting list, so be ready for them to tell you that they cannot get to your car immediately. Every truly great shop has a waiting list. Discuss the timing with them and ask for a date that you can bring the car to them. When that is scheduled, you are on your way!
If it’s a good shop they are not likely to give you a set schedule until the car has been taken apart. This is information the owner and the workers at the shop will not have until they get the car apart and evaluated. After they have done this, they should give you a rough timeline for the work with an estimated completion date. Keep in mind that with old cars things can go wrong. Sometimes new parts don’t fit properly, parts are delayed, and machine shops are just as busy at the restoration shops are, so schedules can be pushed a bit. This is pretty normal, but you should go in expecting this.
Paul Russell happy crewSport and Specialty happy crew
While the car is being restored, let the owner know that you will be visiting as the work progresses. When you go to the shop bring doughnuts or offer to buy the workers lunch. This lets them know you care about your car and care about the work they are doing. You are basically the CEO of the project and people like to be treated well, so when you are thoughtful it pays dividends. While there ask the owner and the technicians how things are going. You will learn so much about your car by doing this and in the process build your relationship with that car.
At the end of the restoration when you pick up the car, I would consider giving each member of the staff who worked on it a cash bonus. In addition thank them for their work and point out the things that you like about the work.
The DB MK3 beforeThe DB Mk3 after
I know this story is a bit long, but if the people who have had bad experiences followed this process, they would not have the issues that unfolded. The keys to this entire process are research and involvement. If you do all of these things you are going to love the car the shop delivers, and you will be well on your way to winning a few awards at concours events.
The big news for Ford Motor Company in the mid-1960s was of course the new Mustang. But we can’t forget to recognize some of the other vehicles that shared showroom floors with Ford’s revolutionary pony car. This was one of them.
“Fully restored with only 77,220 original miles on this factory 289 V8 and Cruise-O-Matic three-speed transmission,” the listing says.
Classified as a “coupe utility,” the Ranchero was produced from 1957 through 1979 across seven distinct generations. The second generation, ranging from 1960 through 1965, was technically called the Falcon Ranchero because it was based on Ford’s compact Falcon underpinnings. Engineers started with the two-door sedan delivery and transformed it into a light-duty pickup truck. The idea was to market the car as a practical, yet capable vehicle that was priced more cheaply than a full-sized pickup. Speaking of the price point, some of Ford’s marketing materials at the time said things like, “Looks like a million, but you needn’t be a millionaire to own it!”
Included in the listing is a walk-around video showing the exterior, interior, and engine bay. The car looks to be largely original with exception of a dual exhaust system and a set of chrome five-spoke wheels wrapped in a set of Ironman tires. The seller says that the car was acquired from an estate sale and has undergone recent mechanical services including replacement of the carburetor, fuel tank, tires, brakes, and battery.
One unique thing about this Ranchero is that 1965 was the only year from the second-generation Ranchero when the 289cid Windsor V8 was offered. That motor produced plenty of power for a compact truck. Load capacity was rated by the factory at 800 pounds. That number was a far cry from some of Ford’s full-size pickups (which could carry upwards of 4,000 pounds or more). However, the reality was that most people’s occasional truck-use needs did not warrant a great deal of capacity. The same idea holds true today, which is why smaller crossover-based pickups are so common.
“Car is in mint condition; we also have the original hubcaps, brochure, and wiring diagram,” the seller says.
Sure, a 1965 Mustang will turn heads, but a 1965 Ranchero can double as an occasional workhorse!
Did you know your favorite car sucks? Indeed, what you like is irrelevant to our lives. Like the sports team that’s your favorite because they’re from your hometown, your favorite car has no logic and purpose and, therefore, sucks. How’s that for a topic for AutoHunter’s Drive the Bid Podcast? While you try to control your temper, watch or listen to the below podcast because you may just find yourself agreeing with Luke Lamendola and me.
For news, we discuss Porsche’s new Macan EV – another vehicle that sucks. After all, who puts a Turbo badge on a vehicle without a turbocharger? Plus, it seems Porsche will be building the ICE version that’s based on the old one, so we are left scratching our heads until we learn more about Porsche’s plans.
AutoHunter Cinema has plenty of other videos and podcasts created by the experts behind ClassicCars.com, the world’s largest online collector car marketplace. AutoHunter brings forth a dedicated live customer support team, quicker auction listings and exclusive benefits for both buyers and sellers.
Featured on AutoHunter, the online auction platform driven by ClassicCars.com, is this 1963 Mercury Meteor S-33 two-door hardtop. Last registered in 1972, this mid-size Merc is powered by the Lightning 260 V8 backed by a Merc-O-Matic automatic transmission. Features include bucket seats, console, power steering, AM radio, and more. Finished in black with red interior, this Meteor is being sold with a clear title from the selling dealership.
The exterior is painted Presidential Black (code A) complemented by longitudinal chrome trim with red inserts. Other exterior features include wheel well and rocker molding, and rear fender-mounted antenna.
Fourteen-inch black steel wheels with tri-color Mercury wheel covers are wrapped in 205/75 whitewall radial tires.
The code 55 interior features red front bucket seats with center console, which was a part of the S-33 trim level. Features include console cubby, power steering, column-mounted automatic shifter, and AM radio.
The instrument panel includes a 110-mph speedometer plus gauges for the fuel, oil pressure, generator, and water temperature. The odometer reads 70,760 miles.
The engine is the top option for the Meteor, the 164-horsepower Lightning 260 V8 topped by a two-barrel carburetor. It is paired to a two-speed Merc-O-Matic automatic transmission. Engine features include red air cleaner housing and valve covers.
This 1963 Meteor features an independent front suspension and solid rear-drive axle. Brakes are of the four-wheel drum variety. Expelled gasses are routed through a single exhaust to the rear. A walk-around and test-drive video can be seen below.
The auction for this 1963 Mercury Meteor S-33 two-door hardtop ends Friday, May 10, 2024 at 11:15 a.m. (PDT).
